The Murals of Jalatlaco

 Sad Ballad of a Cafe

Here in Mexico we went into lock down in mid March 2020 Prior to that, around the time of Day of the Dead, my attention had been captured by the beautiful arrangement of marigolds out front, a new business opened on La Republica about a block or so north of the market La Merced. In addition I could see that the walls inside had been painted with murals. Going in I met a really nice 30’s something couple who had the smiles of the proprietors of a soon to be, hopefully, successful business selling organic products in a coffee house setting.

I introduced myself and came back a few days later with my camera to photograph the art work. I took notes. The young proprietors were pleased by my interest.

Months later I was aware how hard it was to attempt to operate a business during a pandemic and a lock down. But at that time, Day of the Dead, they could not have known and the work that had been done in this space obviously had required time and planning long before this plague set in.

The first sad note is that I have lost or misplaced my notes and so I do not remember their names, the store name or the name of the artist who painted the murals.

The second sad note is that last Sunday as I walked to La Merced, I could see through the opened door that the racks and counters had been removed and that the walls were being painted white.

Sic transit gloria mundi.

I had not seen the store opened for some time, perhaps months, and so I was not surprised that it had closed. It might have been because of the pandemic but it also might have been because of the location: La Republica is a speedway and the foot traffic is limited, in this area, almost exclusively to those going to and coming from La Merced. It is not a tourist area or a favorite area for strolling. And as for being in Jalatlaco it was at the far, seldom traveled, southern end.

The motif of each of the murals was made very large, floor to ceiling, you get the dimensions from the two which include the tables and chairs in the room. The motifs are Mexican...country people,, their costumes, the fabrics, as well as the flowers and vegetables from the local farms and markets. The colors are Mexican and there is that unavoidable reflection with such subject matter of the work of Diego Rivera. All of them were painted over raw sienna color washed walls.

Have often do we say to friends: you have to go to such and such a place to see such and such a thing. How often do we want to support something we find admirable. And how often do we ourselves respond in a positive way to these constant suggestions.

And to whom do you make suggestions when you are one of the few ex pats and the tourist industry has been shuttered

Yes, sad. But I guess you pays your money and you takes your chances.